PRESSING:

Pressing is an up and down motion, raising and lowering the iron and applying pressure. It is not to be confused with ironing, which is a back and forth motion, or sliding of the iron over the surface of the garment. Pressing is an important factor in giving the garment body and incorporating shape.

EQUIPMENT:

Dry/Steam Iron: get a good steam and dry iron with a shot of steam.
Ironing Board: good and sturdy. A sleeve board is also very handy.

Iron Cover: prevents matting of velvets, shining of gabardines and melting of metallics with proper temperature control.

Press Cloth: when pressing on the wrong side of the fabric is not possible, use of a press cloth protects fabric. The cloth may be used wet or dry depending on the fabric that it is being used on. Cloths can be bought in several weights including see through cloth.

Press Mitt: a well padded mitt that can be slipped over the hand or the end of a sleeve board can be used for jobs that might require a tailor’s ham.

Seam Roll: a long stuffed cushion aids in pressing open seams in hard to press areas like sleeves. It allows for pressing only the seams.

Tailor’s Clapper: used to create hard edges on hems and pleats or to flatten seams in lapels or collars. Also it is useful for fabrics that are difficult to press.

Needle board: should be used when pressing embossed fabrics and fabrics with pile, such as velvet. This prevents flattening of the pile. A “substitute” for a needle board is a thick terry cloth towel, several layers of cotton knit or remnants of velvet.

POINTERS:

The pressing should occur from the beginning of the project to the end of construction. Before pinning pressing fabric with steam preshrinks the fabric, shrinking the fibers, insuring little if any shrinkage once the piece is constructed.

Always test the proper iron temperature on scrap before pressing any fabric. As example: synthetic fabrics require a lower temperature.

Silks, synthetic silk-like fabrics, velvets and lames are some of the wonderful fabrics that require special care when pressing.

Fiber content is of major importance in selecting iron temperature. As example: cotton and linen can withstand high iron temperatures without damaging or weakening the fibers. If the same iron temperature were used on a plastic fabric the result would be melting of the plastic fibers.

Some fabrics are susceptible to water spots. To prevent water spots use a dry iron and press on the wrong side of the fabric with a dry press cloth.

If you notice that seams are leaving an impression on the right side of the fabric brown paper or index cards can be used to remedy the problem. Cut into strips and place between the fabric and the seam allowances.

Press on the wrong side of the fabric whenever possible.

Press with the grain of the fabric.

Press as you sew. Many areas cannot be properly pressed after they have been sewn to another piece of the pattern.

Always check the fit before you press the seam.

Do not press over pins and/or basting thread, as they will leave marks. If you must press over basting thread - use silk thread.

Always allow your fabric to completely dry if steam is used. This allows your fabric to maintain shape and will prevent stretching or distortion.

SEWING CONSTRUCTION:

Seams: First press over the closed seam in the direction it was stitched. Press open. Press on both sides of the fabric using a press cloth if necessary.

Darts: First press on the stitching line. Do not press past the dart point. Press in the direction called for in the pattern from the widest part to the narrowest. You may slash and eliminate bulk and press open instead of pressing to one side.

Pleats: Press the hem first, and then pleat the fabric. Cardboard guides aid in pressing pleats.

Sleeves: First press the sleeve seam open on a sleeve board or roll. Then press the sleeve cap to shrink the fullness, thus making a well shaped set-in sleeve. Do this pressing over a tailor’s ham or press mitt. Press only the seam allowance area.

Hems: Reduce seam allowances if necessary, steam out fullness with brown paper between the hem allowance and the garment body. Pound edge for a very crisp hem.

Final press: If you skip pressing steps during the piece construction - the finished product cannot be easily repaired at this stage. Put garment on a dress form or padded hanger - steam with very little pressure - allow the steam to work not the iron, let the garment dry on the form/hanger.