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Do not rub a spot. Whacking - the proper terminology is “tamping”- breaks up the stain with out abrading the fabric. Tamping is a quick succession of 10 to 20 raps, using your fingers and a wad of cheesecloth, in a sort of heavy handed drum roll.
“Feathering” a stain is using a cloth to make quick, light, outward dabs around the perimeter of the solvent area, feathering the line so that damp blends gradually into dry.
When confronted with a spot: ask yourself it: “Is it oil based or water based?”
The most common oil based spot on women’s garments are: cooking oils, cosmetics and ballpoint pens. Water will cause oil to coagulate. If you try to dilute an oil based spot with water, you only make it more difficult to remove. For oil based spots use a dry solvent such as the dry cleaning solvent “Carbona”.
Tannins, which come from plants, are found in fruit juices, tomato sauces, soy sauce, alcohol and soft drinks are considered the worst offenders.
Wine, balsamic vinegar and coffee are water-based spots. Use simple household products: liquid dish soap, white vinegar, hydrogen peroxide. Flush with water.
Tomato sauce and chocolate are combination spots. Use solvent, tamp, allow to dry. Water, detergent, tamp, flush with water. Vinegar, tamp, flush with water. Peroxide, leave it a few minutes, flush with water. Feather.
Rinsing a spot helps, provided you take action within a day or so. After a couple of days spots of animal or vegetable origin - oils, fruit juices, egg, blood- can begin to oxidize (the same process that turns apples brown). Once this happens a spot is well on its way to becoming a stain, It becomes more and more insoluble and harder to remove.
Wool is troublesome because it is porous: stains sink into the core of the fiber.
The iffiest spots are those on colored silk, rayon and linen. This is because the dyes have little affinity for the fabric. The color collects on the surface of the fabric and rubs off when you try to remove the spot; this is especially true with deep colors.
With synthetics, the stains stay on the fiber’s surface.
Oil has an affinity for polyester. Once it gets in, it is hard to get out.
If bleach is needed - stick to safety bleaches such as Snowy or Clorox 2.
Try some cheap Vodka on a stain.
To whiten washable silks and washable woolens: soak in a dilute solution of 3% hydrogen peroxide, using 2 ounces of peroxide per gallon of water. Soak for 3 to 4 hours, then rinse several times until the water is clear. Roll in a towel and air dry.
To care for antique linens: soak spots in a solution of 1 part lemon juice and 1 part water with a pinch of salt. For stubborn stains: immerse in a bath of non-chlorine bleach set in direct sun light. Soak several days, if necessary, changing the water and bleach daily. To iron, blot linens dry, wrap in a terry towel. Put in the refrigerator for 2 to 3 days so the moisture will be drawn out evenly. Spread on a fresh terry towel and iron.
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